Sunday, March 20, 2016

9th and final day

We packed up off the side of the mountain and got moving before daylight as we have been hearing about a major weather change approaching with snow freezing rain and accumulating snow predicted tonight. We were thinking we'd best see if we could make a big push and possibly end down in elevation or out as we didn't have much in the way of cold weather gear.
As we climbed to the top of the mountain we were on we could see the top was heavily fogged in and covered in what's called rim ice, a heavy snow like frost. Actually made for very cool setting with this heavy white coating on all the foliage
As we ran into hikers we kept hearing that their is a bad night approaching so we thought we'd better give finishing a shot so on with a big push with many climbs right to the very end capstoned with a final climb up and over the Notch before a 6 mile decent to Fontana dam under a cold rain right at dusk. Took a quick pic and ran into the welcome facility for a quick change. By the time we jumped back into the car it was 32 then 31 degrees with heavy snow all the way out the 25 miles on route 28 "Tail of the Dragon road" out of the mountains. A Marathon which became a  22 mile nail biter at the end.
With this 165 mile hike across Georgia, North Carolina to the Tennessee line our AT dots are now connected with our 2015 AT walkabout through the southern half of the Smokey's.
Till next time Happy Trails

Post script
like my pack hanging. will switch to my War Bonnet Hammock with bug net next year as mosquitos were just starting to be an issue. Also this model, although slightly heavier allows for a really flat lie.
Both should have had another layer of base cold weather light weights in a water proof stuff to be better insured against the worst.
consider going synthetic rather than down on all. Reason being if the down gets wet it's really difficult to get dry before the next night. Where with synthetic it still has warming properties when wet. Again just to ensure against the worst case- wet pack with no backup at hand.
18.5 miles per day is a bit too far even for mountain men. Took its toll and wouldn't be sustainable if we were hiking continuously, especially in mountains such as these.
Would kick up food rations to include some dehydrated peanut butter to supplement the granola through the day.
Might also try the dehydrated packets the college kids were big on from Wal-Mart. Choice of rice, noodles, or kukus with vegetables and cubed chicken, or beef. They have a variety of these and tuna or salmon packets in lieu of Mountain Meal packets.
Like a $1.00 per packet plus the tuna verses $8.00 to $10.00 for the MMP.
1 can of fuel for the jet boil made it through the 9 days but this is the limit as it was running out. Best to pickup another if possible after 5th day.
Dan reported loosing 12 lbs. and I'm now 5 lbs. lighter (after leg swelling went down:) and went into the hike lean. So again, need extra food onboard to remain sustainable.

Lastly I'm already looking forward to our section next year. we may want to consider the week later to take advantage of more forest floor color while still not having the trees leafed out so we can get the views.

more trail magic. Apples put out for hikers

Dan looking the mountain man part. Seated on left with the other characters here  

End coming into sight. Lake Fontana

At the end of 165


Lake Fontana Welcome flag. Connected the dots to our 2015 Smokey starting point
 

Saturday, March 19, 2016

Day 8

A day of contrasts. Rain was predicted so we found many of the other hikers were doing a zero day either hanging out around a shelter or hitching into town at a highway crossing. However we were determined to keep hiking and see what the day brings. We found the start to be crisp and clear high 30s and sun. We shed cloths as we trekked up and down the thin ( no more than a foot or two wide) thread like path which connects Georgia to Maine through the mountains in solitude. No breakfast again until we had already hiked about 5 miles then ate oats trailside on a bald mountain top and continued on hiking most of the day seeing almost no one.
Mid afternoon we descended way down, all the way down to the Nantahala River home of the Nantahala Outdoor Center or as all hikers call it the NOC. Restaurant Outdoor center, cabins and historical train line all ensure this mountain juncture is a happening place. A real mecca for whitewater rafting here as well. As a result this area is alive with hikers taking days off to rest up and wait until their next food drop arrives, kayakers, bikers, etc. quite the shock to descend on.
Smelling burger grease has we got close we got sucked us in just like every dehydrated food diet hiker coming off the mountain. I dropped my pack under full sun just outside a public restroom and went inside  to change and try to wash off a bit of the mountain only to come out 10 min later to a chilly downpour with water teaming off the roof and thankfully mostly just missing my partially open pack. Would have been a disaster later......
If not already a done deal definitely with the rain, Dan and I dove into a huge "tail of the dragon" burger basket with fries and a big IPA. Was tough not to order another round and go for a cabin I'll tell yah, but somehow we drug ourselves out and packed up the mountain for what turned out to be one of our most difficult climbs so far. Left with full bellies at 4:30pm,legs feeling like lead and the pack the same, crazy what one indulgent meal will do physically and mentally. Worked it off as we climbed though and reached our intended goal for the night of within a mile of the 7 mile assent by nightfall. Cold with wind howling we a hunkered down and made camp on the protected side of the mountain. As it turns out this is one of the most infamous climbs in North Carolina appropriately called Jacobs Ladder. Whew what a day!

Funnies: Our campsite was really in a tough spot on the side of the mountain top tonight. I'm giving it to Dan because he has to move a log up against the top side of a tree trunk and then gather up a ton of leaves to make a nest and keep from rolling off the slope in the middle of the night. It's dark and I am laughing at his nesting follies as I hang my hammock across the steep slope without to much trouble. however being really whipped out (and trying to beat him to bed) I forget to spread out the thing as I come down on it from the top side. Rather I commit myself to flopping back onto a rope instead of an open bag and end up back flipping down the slope. A hell of a drop it was and a bang on the head- thank goodness no rocks! but the most painful part was the pride as he laughed away and chalked up one on his side of the ragging debate;(
21 miles




NOC on the Nantahala River

Tail of the Dragon Burger Basket

White water Olympic Course


bush fighter died here in 1967 fighting a forest fire


Friday, March 18, 2016

7th day

Packed out of  Long Branch stealth campsite at 7:20 am for another strong day of up and down mountains ending up in a mountain gap about 4 miles  past Wayha mountain which was a 5300 ft climb.
Learned more about last nights  drama when we came upon a girl hiking named ladybug who was the one searching for Baha Turns out she went 20 miles and gave up but found out through the trail grape vine he went 25 and then hitched into a town. We're thinking he was running from whether than running to last  night;).
Highlight of the day was a huge spread of frail magic at the top of Wayha. Once again we were famished so we chowed on no less than their version of Cincinnati chili, spaghetti corn bread, drinks and more. Remote phone charger, new mile skin for my feet and  the best part great visiting with them. Tough to push on in fact they said some stay for the better part of the day
Coupe retired hear from Circleville Oh  moved here and now love  being part of the trail support network which exists. Served over 40 people today and will do it all over tomorrow . Priceless
19 miles
Seems I can't posts with pics and have them go through so will try without and tag pics after if you want to check back
Typical 3 sided shelter This taken about 3:30 which is when most end their day

Our days end.

Eating trail side. Looks like we are due for another mountain bath
sign announcing trailside home cooked food 6 miles ahead up Wayha Mountain
cooking setup atop Wayha
Wayha stone fire tower
view off the top
lots of areas on the trail where mountain laurel forms a tunnel

all types of trail magic put out at gaps. here a few hiking poles have been made




 



Thursday, March 17, 2016

6th day

Back into my heavy hiking boots. Tough on my feet bottoms and heels but need the ankle support to keep going, more duck tap;).
We hit the trail at 6:30 today an hour before sun rise. Started out climbing pretty gingerly but ankles slowly  got better as the day went on.
Walked under a tremendous canopy of stars and then the sunrise- all an amazing start to the day. Ate  breakfast on top of a mountain facing east mid morning followed by a mountain stream bath mountain man style what a way to get the blood flowing after having  4 hrs hiking already on our legs. Reinvigorated we said let's make this our long day.
The highlight was going up the Tennessee  grand daddy Albert Mtn 4600 ft. Went from hiking to bouldering to get up to the top and then the  fire tower but the view was spectacular. This was one of the few remaining original fire towers. What a view.
Just made it down the other side set up camp in time to catch the sunset in a mountain gap- no words.
Each at a meal for 2 plus tuna and needed every morsel.
Great day 22 miles
post script as I finished this 9pm stealth trail side post a light just came by moving fast and 10 min latter an apparently really fit girl  yelling Baha. I  called out to her and she apparently met up with earlier in the day and they got separated. Unfortunately he apparently thinks she's in front of him and that was why he was moving fast in the dark.
She asked if we were the Ohio boys by chance. Said he was talking about us too.
Hope he eventually slows and she finds him. See if can't do the same tomorrow.
pic taken after R rated mountain bath. Really quick plunge and a LOT of pucker

Albert Mountain



On Albert Fire Tower


major milestone we completed hiking across Ga. into North Carolina today


Albert Fire Tower

Wednesday, March 16, 2016

5th Day

A very looong day for me. Started out bitter sweet because we dropped our hiking buddy Sam at Dick's Gap where there was a huge trail angel effort underway. A couple who's daughter was hiking thru set up a massive spread to give back. Ham, eggs, sausage and pancakes. We gorged ourselves an had to say goodbye to Sam here as he was then heading into town for a couple zero days. Happy Trails.
We, however had to immediately assault Tray mountain on gorged stomachs. Took us all day to feel trail hungry again, but damn it was scrumptious, would I do it again? In a second!
This and my feet about cooked me today. Had to switch into Dan's new shoes and he took mine as we are luckily the same foot size. This saved the bottoms of my feet from getting worse which  got me through a needed day of blister recoup, however with now no ankle support and my tendons having been torqued rom walking abnormal on prior days, it all added up to looong and swollen.
Ran into a guy in his upper 20s today who appeared to be tremendously fit  carrying a 50lb something pack. Got to talking as we leap frogged ea other up the passes.
Turns out he grew up in Reading and now lives in Sardinia, played on several of our high school fields, etc, small world.
Marine core vet, long range sniper. Had to do things most of us never give a thought to as we go through life. Used to carry a 100 lb pack with ammo and two long range rifles aboard. He is hiking stealth like us out here clearing his head of the demons which he said go with what he had to do. Baha is his trail name  headed to Maine. Many out here with stories to tell and some that never will, they just need to walk and let the trail do the talking.
Funnies: Dan gave up his beloved Big Agnes today. Offered it up at Dicks Gap to a trail shuttle guy and he jumped on it said he will put it in a creek or barrel of water to find the hole and see if he can't patch it up. Looks like Big A may have a future weighting down someone else's pack.

17miles
huge outpouring of generosity being shown for hikers at Dicks Gap. This couple are doing flap jacks, salted ham, sausage, and eggs. There we some 20 hikers savoring every bite when we plodded in to do the same.

Lots of mutual generosity shown on the trail

Beautiful sunrise through the fog hanging on the range

water hydrant mountain style. A laurel leaf put into a water seep to make a spicket

our style of stealth setup. Dan's tent on left and my hammock with rainfly in place on right







Tuesday, March 15, 2016

4th Day

What a difference a day makes! Blew itself out last night such that by 5:30 am there were a million stars above.
From dead bones 12 hours before to reinvigorated again we quickly broke camp and hiked under the star canopy and up and up onto another mountain top for the sunrise. This was a day to die for,, perfect in every way.
Ate breakfast on the top to the sun's coming up over the seemingly endless range of peaks in view then hiked pretty hard all morning.
Breakfast on top

Plenty of rock screed today made for tricky hiking with a loaded pack. one wrong step and .....

The Mountain Dudes

Harold and Albert

Dan holed up

Sam, Dan, and two young guys from Florida.
Eventually coming across a logging service road where we saw two old pickups making their way up with an old mountain  man in each. Looked like "shiner's" we both said. But to our amazement, when we got to the top of the gap after a long pull there they were setup with a campfire going and a huge picnic smorgasbord set up. It was like bees to honey. We were on it pronto. Drinks, cutie nectarines, bananas, and on it went. Albert and his buddy Harold both in their mid eighties, one with a bad case of Parkinson's, but both come there for the day like they said they do every few days. "Yeah we get to meet people from around the world" they go  "doctors lawyers banker types, millionaires and lots of regulars". They seemed to count us two amongst the latter which felt good.
Roamed all over these mountains when younger they said,  told stories of bear huntin all over dem Hills out yonder. Grew up in a holler over there with no electric or running water, and so it went Much like sitting with our dad. Oh and it wouldn't be right without a big ole hound dog which they had there on a chain, Albert said be didn't know just how old ole Buck was but he reckoned he weighed bout 115lbs. About had to drag ourselves out of there but not until they loaded us down with a goody bag to go while apologizing several times over for their buddy Jack who comes to grill hotdogs on the fire but hadn't made it up yet today.
Took all the will power we had to move on. Could hear ole Buck howling all the way up Tray Mountain as we pushed north.
Half way up we see a set of fresh legs humping up and gaining on us. Turns out  it's a young quiet guy back on the trail after a night at a hotel  in  a nearby town. Seems there's quite the enterprising community of people associated with the trail and it's hikers. Shuttling people down to their homes for a meal and  maybe a shower and hostel to sleep at. Sounds like prices vary from $20 to 35 bucks. Wonder if they are star rated and I could talk Jane into the AT that way?:) So far Dan and I are sticking to the Mountain man thing and showering when it rains or in a mountain stream, what a pucker up that is.
Turns out we fell into pace with the guy coming up and hiked together the rest of the day . Sam just graduated from college in Virginia and is taking a 6 mo. hiking break to Maine before going on with "life". Wants to be a PT specialist. My quick take is he'll  be well suited for that field or anything to do with helping people. Couldn't find a more kind hearted quiet, caring kind of person. ( Well maybe I do know of a couple- my sons) Works summer camps with little kids each year and just loves the study of anatomy.
 
The three of us are now stealth camping on a mountain overlook where we were treated to an amazing private vista and sunset over dinner. I'm hanging rain fly-less,  under an amazing star canopy now counting shooting stars and making wishes - three so far.
Funnies: Rolling out onto the trail predawn this morning: I asked Dan the usual; Well how did you sleep in your rabbit hole go last night? And ole Mr. Positive goes, "GREAT" Now I'm thinking, Really? Because I know his ground bag is all but defunct and I could have sworn I was woken up by a commotion in there last night. Asked him about noise and a light flashing around and he goes "oh yeah except for that! Thought I was dreaming about a soft fuzzy thing crawling around over me and woke me up a couple times to turn on the light but  couldn't find anything. Then I woke up because something was biting my finger. Jumped up, turned on the light and spotted a big ole fat mouse and went for him. But he was quick, kept running under my stuff as I tried to squash him. Eventual he got  out through a crack I left open in the entrance. After that I did have trouble falling back to sleep". All I could say was, yeah it sounds like it was great!
17.5 miles today
my hammock without fly deployed tonight

Our dinner view with Sam on left and Dan on right

Sam's 2 man tent with extra vestibule Lots of excess weight!

our camp fire with Dan's single tent in background

Monday, March 14, 2016

3rd day

Dan gets the last laugh today as I was teasing him regarding his big bird yellow hikers he bought at Neal's Gap. Super light though, which turned out to be the key for a Marathon push. Up and down all day with intermittent rain made a believer out of me as my feet turned to hamburger again. Should have thrown my Ahsola hikers up in the tree as well. Instead I'm all duck tapped up again and not quite a third of the way into our hike distance!
All walks of life here on the sub culture trail out here whether your meeting a multi millionaire or a homeless woman after a few days we all look the same and must do the same thing.
Everyone has a story to tell if you will allow it to happen. Hiked on and off with a guy who said he scares others, many can't get beyond his body art and piercings. He's covered in blue ink and has holes everywhere. He's hiking to Maine with his dog Monkey . Turns out he is a professional piercer and develops fish type books for full body hanging which he participates in all over the world . He's giving us all the specifics on point load etc.
Achilles and his dog Monkey

Odd white oak with limb that split down, develop roots and a new tree

balancing rock

Dan with Achilles

as we hike along. He was also very savvy relative to tips for packing and trail hiking efficiency, quite the aficionado.
Turns out he body hanged himself for the first time at 18yrs. old  to alleviate the deep depression which consumed him after, first his mom then his dad committed suicide.
To deal with it he hung himself via his  upper back skin for hrs to relieve the pain at 18 yrs. of age then figured out a way to turn it into a livelihood.  he has also developed trolley systems to take people out over cliffs while hanging by all the body parts you can think of. Has a group of followers who go all over the world to be hung.
Hikes with his "son" his dog Monkey.
Whew he couldn't have met up with two more polar opposites and yet he would wait for us or us him as we traversed the mountains together both with a passion for the trail.
Set up camp on the leeward side of a mountain in a blowing cold rain. Whipped me today.
Funnies Dan's Big Agnes deflated on him several times last night and he's determined it must have a hole in it. Now he's packing a heavy tarp rather than his life raft.
17.5 miles